Kongur East (7,300m ), ascent to 7,300m and proposed name for highpoint on east ridge of Kongur (7,719m). Kongur is the main summit of the Kun Lun range, in the southwestern part of China. It is a complex massif with a long span of elevations over 7,000m running west to east. The only direct access to the main summit is from the north or the south. From the west or the east, climbing on Kongur tackles difficult and long ridges eventually leading to the top.
Kongur has been climbed only five times. The first attempt took place in 1981 by an English team led by Chris Bonington, which climbed a difficult ridge on the south side without reaching the top.
A second effort led another strong party (Bonington, Boardman, Rouse, and Tasker) to the top via the west ridge, which is easily reached from the western slopes via the southwest rib but involves a long stretch at high altitude and a technical section on a sharp rocky ridge just before the summit.The second ascent was made by a Japanese team from the Kyoto Karakoram Club, led by Ryuichi Kotani, which climbed a prominent and difficult ridge in the center of the north face in 1989. In 2004 three separate Russian expeditions climbed from the north, as reported elsewhereSince the south face is huge and bordered by slopes prone to avalanche danger, what remained for us was the east ridge.
Thus, during the 100th anniversary celebrations of the Club Alpino Accademico Italiano (1904-2004), an expedition was organized to climb Kongur via the northeast side of the mountain, where a prominent ridge (northeast) leads to an intermediate summit at 5,975 m, which is connected to the upper plateau by another long stretch of ridge (east) ending at an elevation of about 7,204m as marked on the Chinese map.
At 7719 m, Kongur is the main summit of the Kun Lun range, in the south western part of China.
This mountain has seen few ascents although several expeditions operated in the area. It is a complex massif and, being constituted by a long range of elevations over 7000 m running west to east, the only direct access to the main summit is from the north or from the south. From the west or the east, climbing on Kongur involve tackling some difficult and long ridges eventually leading to the top.
|Day-02||Drive to Chilas on Karakorum highway 11-12hrs|
|Day-3||Drive to Karimabad 6-7hrs|
|Day-4||Drive to Attaabad Lake – Gulmit – Sost|
|Day-5||Drive to Tashkorgan|
|Day-6||Drive to Karakul Lake|
|Day-7||Trek to Kongur Peak base camp|
|Day-08/42||35 days for climbing|
|Day-43||Trek back to Krakul Lake|
|Day-44||Drive to Kashgar|
|Day-45||Drive to Tashkorgan|
|Day-46||Drive to Sost- Gulmit- Karimabad|
|Day-47||Free day/Local exploration|
|Day-48||Dive to Besham 9-10hrs|
|Day-49||Drive to Islamabad 6-7 hrs|
|Day-50||Transfer to Islamabad airport for international flight|