Diran Peak was first climbed in 1968 by three Austrians Rainer Goeschl, Rudolph Pischinger and Hanns Schell. Earlier attempts by a German expedition in 1959 and an Australian expedition in 1964 were unsuccessful.
Like other peaks in Pakistan it has also two names Diran Peak and Minapin Peak. It is situated in Rakaposhi and Haramosh mountain region near the Minapin, Hinarchi and Baultar glaciers. It is easily accessible because of the Karakoram Highway.
A three member Austrian expedition, which included Rainer Goschl, Rudolph Pischinger and Hanns Schell, climbed this peak in 1968. They set up camp-1 at 4800m. Big crevasses, inclement weather and deep snow are recorded between camp-1 at 4800m and camp-II at 5500m.
It was the camp-III at 6300m that the party was able to reach the peak, which it termed as a “big summit plateau”.Their line of ascent, a rising traverse across the convoluted North Face to reach the crest of the West Ridge and then back up this to the summit, has become the standard route on the mountain. Although technically very straightforward in good snow condition (30 degree on the face and around 40 degree on the ridge), the route has reputation for objective danger and avalanche risk..
|Duration:||32 days||Elevation:||7266 m (23,839 ft)|
|Name of Peak:||Diran||First Ascent:||1968 by Austrians team|
|Other Names:||Minapin Peak||BC height:||3650-M|
|Location:||Rakaposhi & Haramosh Massif||Best Period:||June – August|
|Day-01||Arrive at Islamabad transfer to hotel|
|Day-02||Drive to Chilas on Karakorum highway 1-12hrs|
|Day-03||Drive to Minapin 5-6 hrs 2012m|
|Day-04||Trek to Hapakun 4-hrs 2804m|
|Day-05||Trek to Tagaphari 3-4hrs 3261m|
|Day-06||Trek to Diran Peak base camp 5-6hrs 3650m|
|Day-07/26||20 days for climbing|
|Day-27||Trek down to Tagaphari|
|Day-28||Trek down to Minapin and drive to Karimabad 45minutes|
|Day-29||Full day explore Hunza valley|
|Day-30||Drive to Besham 9-10 hrs|
|Day-31||Drive to Islamabad 6-7 hrs|
|Day-32||Transfer to Islamabad airport for international flight|