Italian Mr. Herve Barmasse and Mr. Simone Moro have made the first ascent of Beka Brakai Chhok (6940m), a high and imposing snow and ice peak in the Karakoram’s Batura Group. The ascent and descent were completed in an impressive 43-hour alpine-style attempt with very minimal bivouac equipment, the pair overcoming exposed, poorly protected and delicate sections of hard climbing.
In early August they made their attempt on Beka Brakai Chhok in alpine style. The Italian pair followed the same route as the British-New Zealand couple, starting up the face at 5 a.m. carrying not a tent, sleeping bag nor stove. They found steep, sometimes vertical, steps on the convoluted ice face and continued above the previous high point, making an extremely delicate traverse of the narrow, exposed south ridge. Five 60-meter pitches took them to the plateau below the summit pyramid and by 9:30 p.m. they were at its base at ca. 6500m. Here they decided to sit out the rest of the night in a conveniently placed small crevasse. Next day the last 400m proved sustained, with two poorly protected quasi-vertical pitches through mixed terrain. A final steep, sharp, snow crest led to the summit cornice, just below which they stopped at 2:30 p.m.
Day-01: Arrive at Islamabad and transfer to hotel
Day-02: Drive to Chilas on Karakorum highway 11-12 hrs
Day-03: Drive to Chalt by mini bus and drive by Jeeps to Bar Nala
Day-04: Trek to Toltar camp 4-5 hrs
Day-05: Trek to Baltar Glacier 5-6 hrs
Day-06: Trek to Base camp 6-7hrs
Day-7/24 18 days for climbing
Day-25: Trek down to Baltar Glacier
Day-26: Trek down to Bar Nala and continue drive to Karimabad
Day-27: Free day in Karimabad
Day-28: Drive to Besham 11-12 hrs
Day-29: Drive to Islamabad 6-7 hrs
Day-30: Transfer to Islamabad airport for international flight