Double Header K2 & Broad Peak

Created with Sketch. Karakoram, Pakistan
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Duration

65 Days

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Cancellation

No Cancellation

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Group Size

10 peoples

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Languages

English

Overview

Double Header K2 and Broad Peak

General Information about K2 Expedition

K2 (8611m) is the second-highest mountain on Earth. It is located in the Karakorum segment of the Himalayan range, on the border between the Gilgit- Baltistan region of Pakistan administered Northern Areas and the Taxkorgan Tajik Autonomous County of Xinjiang, China. However, those who climb K2 8611m must acquire entry via Pakistan as the Chinese side is inaccessible.

Climbing routes and difficulties
There are a number of routes on K2, of a somewhat different character, but they all share some key difficulties: First is the extremely high altitude and resulting lack of oxygen: in fact there is only one third as much oxygen available to a climber on the summit of K2 as there is at sea level. Second is the propensity of the mountain to extreme storms of several days’ duration, which have resulted in many of the deaths on the peak. The third is the steep, exposed, and committing nature of all routes on the mountain, which makes the retreat more difficult, especially during a storm. Despite many tries, there has been no successful ascent during the winter.

Abruzzi Spur
The standard route of ascent, used far more than any other route, is the Abruzzi Spur, first attempted by Luigi Amedeo, Duke of the Abruzzi in 1909 (see the history above). This is the southeast ridge of the peak, rising above the Godwin Austen Glacier. The spur proper begins at an altitude of 5,400 m, where Advanced Base Camp is usually placed. The route follows an alternating series of rock ribs, snow/ice fields, and some technical rock climbing on two famous features, “House’s Chimney” and the “Black Pyramid.” Above the Black Pyramid, dangerously exposed and difficult to navigate slopes lead to the easily visible “Shoulder,” and thence to the summit. The last major obstacle is a narrow couloir known as the “Bottleneck,” which places climbers dangerously close to a wall of seracs which form an ice cliff to the east of the summit. (It was partly due to the collapse of one of these seracs around 2001 that no climbers summited the peak in 2002 and 2003.)

North Ridge
The North Face of K2 k2 8611m
Almost opposite from the Abruzzi Spur is the North Ridge, which ascends the Chinese side of the peak. It is rarely climbed, partly due to very difficult access, involving crossing the Shaksgam River, which is a hazardous undertaking. In contrast to the crowds of climbers and trekkers at the Abruzzi base camp, usually at most two teams are encamped below the North Ridge. This route, more technically difficult than the Abruzzi, ascends a long, steep, primarily rock ridge to high on the mountain (Camp IV, the “Eagle’s Nest”, 7,900 m), and then crosses a dangerously slide-prone hanging glacier by a leftward climbing traverse, to reach a snow couloir which accesses the summit.

Besides the original Japanese ascent (see the History section), a notable ascent of the North Ridge was the one in 1990 by Greg Child, Greg Mortimer, and Steve Swenson, which was done alpine style (though using some fixed ropes already put in place by previous teams).
Other routes
Northeast Ridge (long and corniced; finishes on the uppermost part of Abruzzi route), 1978
West Ridge, 1981
Southwest Pillar or “Magic Line”, very technical, and second most demanding, first made in 1986 by Polish-Slovak trio Piasecki-Wroz-Bozik, since then despite many tries by several climbers tried to repeat and no one made it until 2004 Jordi Corominas.
South Face or “Polish Line”, (extremely exposed and most dangerous) in 1986 Jerzy Kukuczka and Tadeusz Piotrowski did first and the only ascent on this route, it was called by Messner a suicidal route and until now no one ever tried to repeat their achievement.
Northwest Face, 1990
Northwest Ridge (finishing on North Ridge), first ascent 1991
South-southeast spur or “Cesen route” (finishing on Abruzzi route; a possibly safer alternative to the Abruzzi) 1994 West Face (technical difficulty at high altitude), 20

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K2 Base Camp Fixed Departure Dates

Start DateEnd DateAvailabilityStatus
16-JUN-202005-JUL-2020 GUARANTEED
20-JUN-202011-JUL-2020 CLOSED
01-JUL-202020-JUL-2020 GUARANTEED
05-JUL-202026-JUL-2020 CLOSED
15-JUL-202003-AUG-2020 GUARANTEED
01-AUG-202020-AUG-2020 AVAILABLE
06-AUG-202027-AUG-2020 CLOSED
20-AUG-202008-SEP-2020 AVAILABLE
01-SEP-202020-SEP-2020 AVAILABLE
10-SEP-202029-SEP-2020 AVAILABLE

K2 Base Camp Fixed Departure Dates

Start DateEnd DateAvailabilityStatus
09-JUN-202030-JUN-2020 CLOSED
16-JUN-202005-JUL-2020 GUARANTEED
01-JUL-2020 20-JUL-2020 GUARANTEED
05-JUL-2020 26-JUL-2020 CLOSED
07-JUL-2020 26-JUL-2020 AVAILABLE
15-JUL-202003-AUG-2020 GUARANTEED
06-AUG-202027-AUG-2020 CLOSED
10-AUG-202029-AUG-2020 AVAILABLE

Snow Lake Biafo Hisper Fixed Departure Dates

Start DateEnd DateAvailabilityStatus
25-JUN-202016-JUL-2020 AVAILABLE
15-JUL-201907-AUG-2019 AVAILABLE
22-JUL-201912-AUG-2019 AVAILABLE
01-AUG-201923-AUG-2019 CLOSED
03-AUG-201925-AUG-2019 AVAILABLE
06-AUG-201927-AUG-2019 CLOSED
07-AUG-201928-AUG-2019 AVAILABLE
15-AUG-201907-SEP-2019 AVAILABLE

Detailed Itinerary

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Day-01: Islamabad and Rawalpindi

Welcome at Islamabad airport and transfer to hotel. After lunch, proceed for city tour of Islamabad and Rawalpindi, which includes famous Faisal Mosque, Shakar Parian, Pakistan monument, Damen Koh, Lok Versa, Museum, Rawalpindi old bazaar, Raja Bazaar.
Altitude: 540 m.
Accommodation: Hotel
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Day-02: Drive from Islamabad to Chilas

Drive to Naran 6-7 hours, 239 km, after lunch continue drive to Chilas 3-4 hours 113.3 km via Babusar Pass 4,173 m.
Babusar Pass is a high mountain pass at an elevation of 4,173 m (13,691 ft) above the sea level. The pass is the highest point in the Kaghan Valley, Pakistan. The pass connects the Kaghan Valley via the ThakNala with Chilas on the Karakoram Highway. It’s one of the famous hair pinned roads in the world.
Altitude: 1265 m.
Accommodation: Hotel
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Day-03: Drive from Chilas to Skardu

Drive to Skardu along with Indus River 8-9 hours, 290 km. En-route stop at junction point of three great mountain ranges meet, the Karakorum, Himalaya and Hindukush and stop at Thalichi for photography from Nanga Parbat 8,126 m.
Altitude: 2,228 m.
Accommodation: Hotel
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Day-04: Drive from Skardu to Askoli

Today we take the spectacular drive by jeeps to Askoli village 6-7 hours. Askoli is starting point of our trek. It is a spectacular drive from Skardu to Askoli; the jeep road crosses the Braldu River three times and passes the villages of Dassu, Apligon, Pakora, Hoto Chongo and Thongal.
Altitude: 3,000 m.
Accommodation: Camping
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Day-05: Trek from Askoli to Jhola

After meeting the porters in the morning, we walk along the Braldu River to Korofoung for lunch 3hrs, enjoy great views of Bakhor Das 5,809 m and the Biafo Glacier, after lunch continue trek to Jhola another 3-4 hours.
Altitude:3,200 m.
Accommodation: Camping
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Day-06: Trek from Jhola to Paiyu

Trek to Paiyu 6-7 hours 16.6 km.
This is an undulating walk, difficult at times, with the first views of dramatic mountains ahead. There is a rest stop by some tamarisk trees beside the stream flowing down from Paiyu Peak, where we saw ibex tracks and fox spore. The trail climbs to a vantage point from which you see the snout of Baltoro Glacier and, in the far distance, a magnificent panorama of the Cathedral and Trango Towers and left of them, the unmistakable triangle of K2 .
Altitude: 3,450 m.
Accommodation: Camping
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Day-07: Acclimatization day in Paiyu

Free day for local exploration and Porter will prepare their food for further trek, We enjoy a slow start today taking in our stunning surroundings. We take a short acclimatization trek during the day and in the evening sing and dance with the porters.
Altitude: 3,450 m.
Accommodation: Camping
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Day-08: Trek from Paiyu to Urdukas

Trek to Urdukas 15.9 km, 7-8 hours. Another stunning day on our journey to K2 Base Camp. View of Paiyu Peak 6,610 m, Uli Biaho 6,417 m, Great Trango Tower 6,286 m, Lobsang Spire 5,707 m and the Cathedral Towers. Altitude: 4,050 m.
Accommodation: Camping
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Day-09: Trek from Urdukas to Goro-II

Trek to Goro-II, 12.1 km, 5-6 hours. A special day today as we will be greeted by our first full view of the giant peaks of the Karakorum. Masherbrum 7821 m, Muztagh Tower 7,284 m, G-IV (7,925 m), Miter Peak 6,025 m and Biarchedi Peak 6,781 m.
Altitude: 4,380 m.
Accommodation: Camping
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Day-10: Trek from Goro-II to Concordia

Trek to Concordia 9.2 km, 5-6 hours. Where the Baltoro, Abruzzi and Godwin Austen glaciers meet. The 360-degree panoramic view here is one of the most spectacular sights in the world. Concordia the joining of the five glaciers you will be in the heart great Mountain K2, 8611 m, Broad Peak 8047 m, Angel Peak 6858 m to the left and to the East Baltoro Kangri, Kondus, Snow Dome, Golden Throne and numerous nameless mountains all around this is an exciting day of your trip.
Altitude: 4,650 m.
Accommodation: Camping
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Day-11: Trek from Concordia- K2 BC

Today it is golden opportunity to see 7000 m to above 8000 m peaks including mighty K2 (8611 m) Broad Peak 8047 m, Gasherbrum-IV 7925 m, Miter Peak 6025 m Golden Throne 7240 m. Afterwards we continue on to K2 Base Camp (5,135 m).
Altitude: 5,135 m.
Accommodation: Camping
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Day-12-60: Climbing Days in Base Camp

49 days in K2 base camp for climbing

Day-57-61: Trek from Base Camp to Askoli

5 days for trekking down to Askoli. Overnight in tents

Day-62: Drive from Askoli to Skardu

Drive back to Skardu 6-7 hours.
Accommodation: Hotel: Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Day-63: Fly from Skardu to Islamabad

Today we fly to Islamabad. Afternoon is free for exploring.
Note: If our flight is cancelled due to bad weather, we will start the drive to Islamabad travelling for 9 hours along with Indus River to reach Chilas.
Accommodation: Hotel
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Day-64: Free day in Islamabad

Enjoy a free day in Islamabad for exploring, sightseeing and shopping.
Note: If our flight on day 18 cancelled we will spend 11-12 hours driving from Chilas to Islamabad via Babusar Pass 4173 m.
Accommodation: Hotel
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Day-65: Fly back Home

Transfer to Islamabad airport for return flight.

  • Airport transfer on first and last day in Islamabad
  • All domestic road transfers
  • All hotel accommodation
  • All hotel meals (breakfast, lunch and dinner)
  • All meals during trek and at B.C. as per itinerary.
  • Liaison with Ministry of Tourism in Islamabad for climbing permits and documentation
  • Assist import/export permit from Ministry of Tourism.
  • Cargo handling and storage in skardu office.
  • Satellite phone for emergency
  • Electricity generator
  • Arrangement of Official Briefing/Debriefing.
  • Porterage of 75 kg per person of expedition equipment.
  • Sleeping tents, mattresses, mess tent, Toilet tent and shower tent
  • Tables/field stools and camping ground fees.
  • Kitchen equipment, crockery, cutlery, fuel and related community gear.
  • Wages and basic kit of guide, sirdar, cook and assistant(s).
  • Experienced Pakistani cook and Kitchen staff
  • Insurance of our field staff and low altitude porters (except helicopter rescue).
  • International air ticket and airport taxes.
  • Visa fee for Pakistan
  • Personal insurance of the clients.
  • Tips for drivers, porters and staff
  • High altitude porters/any crew above BC.
  • Helicopter charges in case of use for rescue.
  • Transfers to and from airports for participants making individual air arrangements.
  • Optional excursions or deviations from the scheduled tour
  • Sleeping bag and all personal expenses such as telephone, fax, email charges, liquor or soft drinks,
  • Room service, gratuities for personal services, items of a purely
  • Cargo Clearing agent charges.
  • Any other service that is not mentioned in the list above.

K2 Base Camp Trek MAP

K2 Base Camp Gondogoro MAP

Snow Lake Biafo Hisper MAP


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