Ultar Sar Expedition - Hunza Guides Pakistan

Ultar Sar Expedition (7,388-M)

Expedition to Ultar Sar (7,388-M)

Ultar Sar Peak Hunza

Ultar Sar Expedition 7,388-M

Best time for climbing Ultar Sar is from June to September

Ultar SAR (also Ultar, Ultar II, Bojohagur Duanasir II) is the southeastern most major peak of the Batura Muztagh, a subrange of the Karakorum Range. It lies about 10 km (6 miles) northeast of the Karimabad, a town on the Karakorum Highway in the Hunza Valley, part of the Gilgit District of the Northern Areas of Pakistan.

Notable Features and Climbing History

While not one of the highest peaks of the Karakorum, Ultar SAR is notable for its dramatic rise above local terrain. Its south flank rises over 5,300 meters (17,388 feet) above the Hunza River near Karimabad, in only about 10 km (6 miles) of horizontal distance. Combined with its strategic position at the end of the Batura Muztagh, with the Hunza River bending around it, this makes Ultar a visually striking peak.

Ultar SAR also gained fame in the 1990s as supposedly the world’s highest unclimbed independent peak. This was incorrect, as Gangkhar Puensum in Bhutan is higher, and remains unclimbed (and off-limits) in 2007. (Two other higher peaks are also reputedly unclimbed and of independent stature.) However that perception did add to the appeal of the peak, and a number of expeditions attempted to climb it. During the 1980s and 1990s over 15 expeditions made attempts, resulting in no success, but in a number of fatalities; the peak proved to be quite difficult.

The first two ascents were made in July 1996 by two separate Japanese expeditions, the first (from the Tokai section of the Japanese Alpine Club) led by Akito Yamazaki (who summitted, but died on the descent) and the second led by Ken Takahashi. The first summit team comprised Yamazaki and Kiyoshi Matsuoka (who died one year later on the nearby peak Bublimotin). They climbed the peak from the southwest in alpine style, doing much of the climbing at night to avoid danger from falling rock and ice. After their successful summit, they faced strong storms and bivouaced several days without food before returning to base camp. However, Akihito Yamazaki died at the base camp of an internal disease due to the severe stress of climbing.

The second summit team comprised Takahashi and four others: Masayuki Ando, Ryushi Hoshino, Wataru Saito, and Nobuo Tsutsumi. They climbed the south ridge. Since 1996, there have been no recorded ascents of the peak.

Dates & Cost – Ultar Sar Expedition

ULTAR SAR EXPEDITION	Cost (USD)	Cost (EUR)
Ultar Sar Expediton (40 Days) – ALL INCLUSIVE	US$ 3,385	€ 3,215
Ultar Sar Expedition (45 Days) – ALL INCLUSIVE	US$ 3,565	€ 3,380

Start Dates	End Dates	Deposit	Availability	Register
20-June	28-July	US$ 500	Available	Book Now
10-July	24-August	US$ 500	Available	Book Now

Detailed Itinerary Ultar Sar Expedition

Day-01: Islamabad and Rawalpindi

Welcome at Islamabad airport and transfer to hotel. Afternoon proceed for city tour of Islamabad and Rawalpindi, which includes famous Faisal Mosque, Shakar Parian, Pakistan monument, Damen Koh, Lok Versa, Museum, Rawalpindi old bazaar, Raja Bazaar.

Altitude: 540m.
Accommodation: Hotel
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Day-02: Drive from Islamabad to Chilas

Drive to Naran 6-7 hours 239 km, after lunch continue drive to Chilas 3-4 hours 113.3 km via Babusar Pass 4,173 m.
Babusar Pass is a high mountain pass at an elevation of 4,173 m (13,691 ft) above the sea level. The pass is the highest point in the Kaghan Valley, Pakistan. The pass connects the Kaghan Valley via the Thak Nala with Chilas on the Karakorum Highway. It’s one of the famous hair pinned roads in the world.

Altitude: 1,265m.
Accommodation: Hotel
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Day-03: Drive from Chilas to Kariambad

Drive to Karimabad (Hunza) 5-6 hours 240 km. En-route stop at junction point of three great mountain ranges meet, the Karakorum, Himalaya and Hindukush, at Thalichi for photography from Nanga Parbat 8,126 m and at Rakaposhi view point for photography and refreshment.

Altitude: 2,500m
Accommodation: Hotel
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Day-04: Karimabad to Shahabad & Shamir Harai

Drive by jeeps to Shahabad village 30 minutes, after meeting the porters in the morning, we start our trek for Shamir Harai 4-5 hours.