Ultar Sar Expedition

Created with Sketch. Karakoram, Pakistan
Not Rated
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Duration

42 Days

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Cancellation

No Cancellation

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Group Size

10 peoples

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Languages

English

Overview

Best time for climbing Ultar Sar is from June to September 

Ultar Sar Peak (7,388M)

Ultar SAR (also Ultar, Ultar II, Bojohagur Duanasir II) is the southeastern most major peak of the Batura Muztagh, a subrange of the Karakorum Range. It lies about 10 km (6 miles) northeast of the Karimabad, a town on the Karakorum Highway in the Hunza Valley, part of the Gilgit District of the Northern Areas of Pakistan.

Notable Features and Climbing History

While not one of the highest peaks of the Karakorum, Ultar SAR is notable for its dramatic rise above local terrain. Its south flank rises over 5,300 meters (17,388 feet) above the Hunza River near Karimabad, in only about 10 km (6 miles) of horizontal distance. Combined with its strategic position at the end of the Batura Muztagh, with the Hunza River bending around it, this makes Ultar a visually striking peak.

Ultar SAR also gained fame in the 1990s as supposedly the world’s highest unclimbed independent peak. This was incorrect, as Gangkhar Puensum in Bhutan is higher, and remains unclimbed (and off-limits) in 2007. (Two other higher peaks are also reputedly unclimbed and of independent stature.) However that perception did add to the appeal of the peak, and a number of expeditions attempted to climb it. During the 1980s and 1990s over 15 expeditions made attempts, resulting in no success, but in a number of fatalities; the peak proved to be quite difficult.

The first two ascents were made in July 1996 by two separate Japanese expeditions, the first (from the Tokai section of the Japanese Alpine Club) led by Akito Yamazaki (who summitted, but died on the descent) and the second led by Ken Takahashi. The first summit team comprised Yamazaki and Kiyoshi Matsuoka (who died one year later on the nearby peak Bublimotin). They climbed the peak from the southwest in alpine style, doing much of the climbing at night to avoid danger from falling rock and ice. After their successful summit, they faced strong storms and bivouaced several days without food before returning to base camp. However, Akihito Yamazaki died at the base camp of an internal disease due to the severe stress of climbing.

The second summit team comprised Takahashi and four others: Masayuki Ando, Ryushi Hoshino, Wataru Saito, and Nobuo Tsutsumi. They climbed the south ridge. Since 1996, there have been no recorded ascents of the peak.

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K2 Base Camp Fixed Departure Dates

Start DateEnd DateAvailabilityStatus
16-JUN-202005-JUL-2020 GUARANTEED
20-JUN-202011-JUL-2020 CLOSED
01-JUL-202020-JUL-2020 GUARANTEED
05-JUL-202026-JUL-2020 CLOSED
15-JUL-202003-AUG-2020 GUARANTEED
01-AUG-202020-AUG-2020 AVAILABLE
06-AUG-202027-AUG-2020 CLOSED
20-AUG-202008-SEP-2020 AVAILABLE
01-SEP-202020-SEP-2020 AVAILABLE
10-SEP-202029-SEP-2020 AVAILABLE

K2 Base Camp Fixed Departure Dates

Start DateEnd DateAvailabilityStatus
09-JUN-202030-JUN-2020 CLOSED
16-JUN-202005-JUL-2020 GUARANTEED
01-JUL-2020 20-JUL-2020 GUARANTEED
05-JUL-2020 26-JUL-2020 CLOSED
07-JUL-2020 26-JUL-2020 AVAILABLE
15-JUL-202003-AUG-2020 GUARANTEED
06-AUG-202027-AUG-2020 CLOSED
10-AUG-202029-AUG-2020 AVAILABLE

Snow Lake Biafo Hisper Fixed Departure Dates

Start DateEnd DateAvailabilityStatus
25-JUN-202016-JUL-2020 AVAILABLE
15-JUL-201907-AUG-2019 AVAILABLE
22-JUL-201912-AUG-2019 AVAILABLE
01-AUG-201923-AUG-2019 CLOSED
03-AUG-201925-AUG-2019 AVAILABLE
06-AUG-201927-AUG-2019 CLOSED
07-AUG-201928-AUG-2019 AVAILABLE
15-AUG-201907-SEP-2019 AVAILABLE

Detailed Itinerary

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Day-01: Islamabad and Rawalpindi

Welcome at Islamabad airport, and transfer to hotel. Afternoon proceed for city tour of Islamabad and Rawalpindi, which includes famous Faisal Mosque, Shakar Parian, Pakistan monument, Damen Koh, Lok Versa, Museum, Rawalpindi old bazaar, Raja Bazaar.
Altitude: 540 m
Accommodation: Hotel
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Day-02: Drive from Islamabad to Chilas

Drive to Naran 6-7 hours, 239 km, after lunch continue drive to Chilas 3-4 hours 113.3 km via Babusar Pass 4,173 m.
Babusar Pass is a high mountain pass at an elevation of 4,173 m (13,691 ft) above the sea level. The pass is the highest point in the Kaghan Valley, Pakistan. The pass connects the Kaghan Valley via the Thak Nala with Chilas on the Karakorum Highway. It’s one of the famous hair pinned roads in the world.
Altitude: 1,265 m
Accommodation: Hotel
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Day-03: Drive from Chilas to Karimabad

Drive to Karimabad (Hunza) 5-6 hours 240 km. En-route stop at junction point of three great mountain ranges meet, the Karakorum, Himalaya and Hindukush, at Thalichi for photography from Nanga Parbat 8,126 m and at Rakaposhi view point for photography and refreshment.
Altitude: 2,500 m
Accommodation: Hotel
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Day-04: Karimabad to Shahabad & Shamir Harai

Drive by jeeps to Shahabad village 30 minutes, after meeting the porters in the morning, we start our trek for Shamir Harai 4-5 hours.
Accommodation: Camping
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Day-05: Trek from Shamir Harai to Bath Bakhor

Trek from Shamir Harai to Bath Bakhor 4-5 hours.
Accommodation: Camping
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Day-06: Trek from Bath Bakhor to Base Camp

Trek from Bath Bakhor to Ultar Sar base camp 4-5 hours.
Accommodation: Camping
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Day-07-36: Climbing Days in Base Camp

28 days in Ultar base camp for climbing activities.
Accommodation: Camping
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Day-37: Trek from Base Camp to Shamir Garai

Trek down to Bath Bakhor 3-4 hours, after lunch continue to trek to Shamir Harai 4 hours.
Accommodation: Camping
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Day-38: Trek from Shamir Harai and Shahabad

Trek down to Shahabad 3 hours and drive to Karimabad thirty minutes.
Altitude: 2,500 m
Accommodation: Hotel
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Day-39: Free day in Karimabad

Free day in Hunza or Local visits.
visit Baltit Fort 700 Years old and Baltit village, afternoon visit Altit Fort 900 Years old and Altit village.
Evening enjoy water channel walk from Karimabad to towards Hyderabad village.
Altitude: 2,500 m
Accommodation: Hotel
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Day-40: Drive from Karimabad to Naran

Drive to Naran 355 km via Babusar Pass 4173 m. En-route stop at various viewpoints for photography and refreshment.
Altitude: 2,409 m
Accommodation: Hotel
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Day-41: Drive from Naran to Islamabad

Drive to Islamabad 5-6 hours en- route visit Taxila museum and historical sites.
Altitude: 540 m
Accommodation: Hotel
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Day-42: Fly Back Home

Transfer to Islamabad airport for return flight.

  • Airport transfer on first and last day in Islamabad
  • All domestic road transfers
  • All hotel accommodation
  • All hotel meals (breakfast, lunch and dinner)
  • All meals during trek and at B.C. as per itinerary.
  • Liaison with Ministry of Tourism in Islamabad for climbing permits and documentation
  • Assist import/export permit from Ministry of Tourism.
  • Cargo handling and storage in Skardu office.
  • Satellite phone for emergency
  • Electricity generator
  • Arrangement of Official Briefing/Debriefing.
  • Porterage of 75 kg per person of expedition equipment.
  • Sleeping tents, mattresses, mess tent, Toilet tent and shower tent
  • Tables/field stools and camping ground fees.
  • Kitchen equipment, crockery, cutlery, fuel and related community gear.
  • Wages and basic kit of guide, Sirdar, cook and assistant(s).
  • Experienced Pakistani cook and Kitchen staff
  • Insurance of our field staff and low altitude porters (except helicopter rescue).
  • International air ticket and airport taxes.
  • Visa fee for Pakistan and personal insurance of the clients.
  • Tips for drivers, porters and staff
  • High altitude porters/any crew above BC.
  • Helicopter charges in case of use for rescue.
  • Transfers to and from airports for participants making individual air arrangements.
  • Optional excursions or deviations from the scheduled tour
  • Sleeping bag and all personal expenses such as telephone, charges, liquor or soft drinks,
  • Room service, gratuities for personal services, items of a purely
  • Cargo Clearing agent charges.
  • Any other service that is not mentioned in the list above.

K2 Base Camp Trek MAP

K2 Base Camp Gondogoro MAP

Snow Lake Biafo Hisper MAP


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