+92300 850 4627
info@hunzaguidespakistan.com
25 Years of Excellence
Government Licence: 396

Spantik Expedition

Spantik Peak Expedition (7,027-M)
View from summit of Spantik Peak
Spantik Expedition (7,027-M)
Spantik Expedition (7,027-M)
Spantik Peak Expedition (7,027-M)
View from summit of Spantik Peak
Spantik 7027m
Spantik Expedition (7,027-M)
previous arrow
next arrow

Spantik Expedition 7027-M (Golden Peak)

Talking of Spantik 7027m is, in reality, talking of three-in-one mountain. In fact, climbing to C2 and C3. In itself is magnificent, in the way that each camp is established on a mini-summit of South- East Ridge, with a view of 360 degrees.

LEVEL: The success of this type of adventure, apart from weather conditions, depends upon the physical structure of each participant on one hand, and the other hand, on their indispensable experience of high mountains, the roped parties should be self-sufficient, even if we provide the equipment of or the main glacier difficulties (45/50 degree) of fixed cords. The roped parties will have to participate as much as possible in the installation of equipment. The expedition is for mountaineers who have the experience of climbing as independent roped parties, on snow and glaciers of AD Level. High altitude experience is required, for example, climbing of any 6000. An excellent physical condition, as well as regular practice, is required to enjoy this exceptional itinerary. The high altitude difficulties are expected such as isolation, lack of oxygen, cold, blizzards, etc.

During the following 18 days, we will have one objective, to climb the Spantik, for that matter, we would need three high altitude camps:

Camp-I at about 4450m, less uneven path but away from the base camp (we climb up to the birthplace of Chogolungma glacier, about 8 km. Camp-II at 5300m and Camp-III at 6050m.

Certain parts of the path between different camps will be equipped with fixed cords for safety and going and coming without problem. Climbing to C2 and C3 are real magnificent paths, as each camp is installed at a mini-summit of southeastern ridge giving a view of 360 degrees. The distribution of collective tasks for high altitude camps is based on rotation among mountaineers, team and the guide (or guides). From Camp 3, there will still be 950m of the uneven path that will have to be covered within one day in order to reach the summit. Going and coming between camps will help you for acclimatization, the key to success in the majority of cases. The dismantling of camps will also be a collective task done under the guidance of the guide.

Spantik Expedition – Dates And Cost 2024

SPANTIK EXPEDITION  Cost (USD)Cost (EUR)
Spantik Expedition (28 Days) – ALL INCLUSIVE US$ 3,550€ 3,420
Spantik Expedition (30 Days)- ALL INCLUSIVE US$ 3,680€ 3,540
Start DatesEnd DatesDepositAvailabilityRegister
02-July31-JulyUS$ 500Available 
22-July23-AugustUS$ 500Guaranteed
Closed
01-August30-AugustUS$ 500 Available 

Detailed Itinerary Spantik Expedition

 

Welcome at Islamabad airport and transfer to hotel. Afternoon proceed for city tour of Islamabad and Rawalpindi, which includes famous Faisal Mosque, Shakar Parian, Pakistan monument, Damen Koh, Lok Versa, Museum, Rawalpindi old bazaar, Raja Bazaar.

Altitude: 540 m.
Accommodation: Hotel
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Drive to Naran 6-7 hours 239 km, after lunch continue drive to Chilas 3-4 hours 113.3 km via Babusar Pass 4,173 m.
Babusar Pass is a high mountain pass at an elevation of 4,173 m (13,691 ft) above the sea level. The pass is the highest point in the Kaghan Valley, Pakistan. The pass connects the Kaghan Valley via the Thak Nala with Chilas on the Karakorum Highway. It’s one of the famous hair pinned roads in the world.

Altitude: 1,265m.
Accommodation: Hotel
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Drive to Skardu along with Indus River 8-9 hours, 290 km. En-route stop at junction point of three great mountain ranges meet, the Karakorum, Himalaya and Hindukush and stop at Thalichi for photography from Nanga Parbat 8,126 m.

Altitude: 2,228 m.
Accommodation: Hotel
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Today we take the spectacular drive by jeeps to Aarandu. Arandu is last village and starting point of our trek.

Altitude: 2,770m
Accommodation: Camping
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Trek from Arandu to Chogo Brangsa 6-7 hours.

Altitude: 3,322m
Accommodation: Camping
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Trek to from Chogo Brangsa to Bolocho camp 5-6 hours.

Altitude: 3,800m
Accommodation: Camping
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Trek to Spantik base camp 5-6 hours.

Altitude: 4,300m
Accommodation: Camping
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

17 days for climbing Spantik 7027 m.

Accommodation: Camping
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Trek down to Bolocho 4-5 hours.

Altitude: 3,800m
Accommodation: Camping
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Trek down to Arandu 4-5 hours.

Altitude: 2,770m
Accommodation: Camping
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Drive back to Skardu 6-7 hours.

Altitude: 2,228m
Accommodation: Hotel
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

We fly back to Islamabad. Afternoon is free for exploring.
Note: If our flight is cancelled due to bad weather, we will start the drive to Islamabad travelling for 9 hours along with Indus River to reach Chilas.

Altitude: 540m
Accommodation: Hotel
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Enjoy a free day in Islamabad for exploring, sightseeing and shopping.
Note: If our flight on day 28 cancelled we will spend 11-12 hours driving from Chilas to Islamabad via Babusar Pass 4173 m.

Altitude: 540m
Accommodation: Hotel
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Transfer to Islamabad airport for return flight.

Diran Peak Expedition

Diran Peak Expedition
Base Camp of Diran Peak
Diran Peak Expedition
Base Camp of Diran Peak
previous arrow
next arrow

Diran Peak Expedition 7,266-M

Diran peak 7266m is a mountain in the Karakorum Range of the (Gilgit- Baltistan) Northern Areas of Pakistan. This pyramid shaped mountain lies in the East of Rakaposhi (7,788m).

Diran peak 7266m  was first climbed in 1968 by three Austrians Rainer Goeschl, Rudolph Pischinger, and Hanns Schell. Earlier attempts by a German expedition in 1959 and an Australian expedition in 1964 were unsuccessful.
Diran is a dangerous mountain in Pakistan as its snow faces are often laden with avalanche prone snow slopes and so far causing many events resulting in dozens of deaths.

Diran EXPEDITION Cost (USD)Cost (EUR)
Diran Peak Expedition 30 Days) – ALL INCLUSIVEUS$ 3,395€ 3,225
Diran Peak Expedition (34 Days) – ALL INCLUSIVEUS$ 3,580€ 3,410

Diran Peak Expedition- Dates And Cost  

Start DatesEnd DatesDepositAvailabilityRegister
01-July30-JulyUS$ 500 Available 
25-July27-AugustUS$ 500 Available 

Detailed Itinerary Diran Peak Expedition

Welcome at Islamabad airport and transfer to hotel. Afternoon proceed for city tour of Islamabad and Rawalpindi, which includes famous Faisal Mosque, Shakar Parian, Pakistan monument, Damen Koh, Lok Versa, Museum, Rawalpindi old bazaar, Raja Bazaar.

Altitude: 540m
Accommodation: Hotel
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Drive to Naran 6-7 hours 239 km, after lunch continue drive to Chilas 3-4 hours 113.3 km via Babusar Pass 4,173 m.
Babusar Pass is a high mountain pass at an elevation of 4,173 m (13,691 ft) above the sea level. The pass is the highest point in the Kaghan Valley, Pakistan. The pass connects the Kaghan Valley via the Thak Nala with Chilas on the Karakorum Highway. It’s one of the famous hair pinned roads in the world.

Altitude: 1,265m
Accommodation: Hotel
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Drive to Minapin 6-7 hours. 200 km. En-route stop at junction point of three great mountain ranges meet, the Karakorum, Himalaya and Hindukush, at Thalichi for photography from Nanga Parbat 8,126 m and at Rakaposhi view point for photography and refreshment.

Altitude: 2,012m
Accommodation: Hotel 
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Trek from Minapin village to Hapakun hours.
The trail begins behind the Minapin village, cross a bridge to the Minapin River’s true left bank. The step path gives wide views of the Minapin Glacier, and eventually of the entire Rakaposhi-Diran crest line.

Altitude: 2,804m
Accommodation: Camping
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Trek to Tagaphari (Rakaposhi base camp 3-4 hours), 3 km, after lunch continue trek to Diran Peak base camp.
Ascend a trail through forest with excellent views of Diran as you rise above the Minapin glacier. There is lush green Tagaphari meadow also summer huts with shepherds just overlooking the glacier’s supper ice fields.

Altitude: 3,650m
Accommodation: Camping
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

22 days in Diran Peak base camp for climbing.

Accommodation: Camping
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Trek back to Rakaposhi base camp, after lunch continue trek down to Hapakun camp.

Altitude: 2,804m
Accommodation: Camping
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Trek down to Minapin 4 hours and drive to Karimabad. After refreshment local visits in Karimabad.

Altitude: 2,500m
Accommodation: Hotel
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Drive to Naran 355 km via Babusar Pass 4173 m. En-route stop at various viewpoints for photography and refreshment.

Altitude: 2,409m
Accommodation: Hotel
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Drive from Naran to Islamabad 5-6 hours, en-route visit Taxila museum and historical sites.

Accommodation: Hotel:
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Transfer to Islamabad airport for return flight.

Passu Peak Expedition

Passu Peak Expedition (7,284-M)
Passu Peak base Camp
Passu Peak Climbing
Passu Peak 7284m
Passu Peak Expedition (7,284-M)
Passu Peak base Camp
Passu Peak Climbing
Passu Peak 7284m
previous arrow
next arrow

Passu Peak Expedition 7,284-M

Best time for climbing Passu Peak is from June to September 

Passu Sar or Passu Peak 7284m is a mountain peak in the Batura Muztagh, a sub-range of the Karakoram mountain range, located in the Gilgit District of the Northern Areas of Pakistan, west of the Hunza Valley. It is the high point of the Passu massif, which also includes Passu Diar (or “Passu East”, “Pasu II”). The peak lies on the main ridge of the Batura Muztagh, about 7 km (4mi) east of Batura SAR.
Passu SAR or Passu Peak 7284m was first climbed on August 7, 1994, by Max Wallner, Dirk Naumann, Ralf Lehmann, and Volker Wurnig.

There are many ICE walls and crevasses between BC to camp-1, especially closed to camp-1.
From ABC to camp-1 Professional and experienced climbers have to find the exact route and fix the rope for the rest of the members. It takes time to find exact route among the ice walls and crevasses. Need at least 500 to 700m rope (depends on the size of group), ice screws and snow tub and …. Climbers must be rope up. Advise carrying 2 ladders in case of crevasses become bigger.

PASSU PEAK EXPEDITION Cost (USD)Cost (EUR)
Passu Peak Expedition (30 Days) – ALL INCLUSIVEUS$ 3,655€ 3,480
Passu Peak Expedition (32 Days) – ALL INCLUSIVEUS$ 3,840€ 3,665

Dates & Cost – Passu Peak Expedition

Start DatesEnd DatesDepositAvailabilityRegister
25-June24-JulyUS$ 500 Available 
10-July10-AugustUS$ 500 Available 
Detailed Itinerary Passu Peak Expedition

Welcome at Islamabad airport and transfer to hotel. Afternoon proceed for city tour of Islamabad and Rawalpindi, which includes famous Faisal Mosque, Shakar Parian, Pakistan monument, Damen Koh, Lok Versa, Museum, Rawalpindi old bazaar, Raja Bazaar.

Altitude: 540m.
Accommodation: Hotel
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Drive to Naran 6-7 hours 239 km, after lunch continue drive to Chilas 3-4 hours 113.3 km via Babusar Pass 4,173 m.
Babusar Pass is a high mountain pass at an elevation of 4,173 m (13,691 ft) above the sea level. The pass is the highest point in the Kaghan Valley, Pakistan. The pass connects the Kaghan Valley via the Thak Nala with Chilas on the Karakorum Highway. It’s one of the famous hair pinned roads in the world.

Altitude: 1,265m.
Accommodation: Hotel
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Drive to Karimabad (Hunza) 5-6 hours 240 km. En-route stop at junction point of three great mountain ranges meet, the Karakorum, Himalaya and Hindukush, at Thalichi for photography from Nanga Parbat 8,126 m and at Rakaposhi view point for photography and refreshment.

Altitude: 2,500m
Accommodation: Hotel
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Drive to Borith Lake 1 hour and meet porter and trek to Luzdher 3-4 hours.
Today we cross Passu white glacier, with sections of some crevasses in beginning and end also huge boulders. Luzdher camp is at the base of Patundas meadows; while cross Passu glacier especially in the beginning and at the end our valued clients has to be rope up just for safety precautions. There are no crevasses in the middle of the glacier. Have a nice view of Passu peak, Shishper peak, Ultar SAR and Popdan peak.

Altitude: 3.660m
Accommodation: Camping
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Trek to Patundas Pass 4-5 hours.
Steep trek to Patundas, a meadow at the crest of a small hill, this brings you the fascinating area of upper Hunza. The highlight being Patundas Meadows 4575 m. A vantage point, which offers views of an ocean of peaks: Shisper 7611 m, Dastagil SAR 7785 m, Momhil SAR 7343 m, Rakaposhi 7788 m and many more.

Altitude: 4,100m
Accommodation: Camping
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Trek from Patundas Pass to Passu Peak base camp 4 hours.

Accommodation: Camping
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

20 days in Passu Peak base camp for climbing.

Accommodation: Camping
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Trek down to Patundas Das Pass and continue trek to Luzdhur.

Altitude: 3,660m
Accommodation: Camping
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Trek down to Passugar.

Altitude: 3,200m
Accommodation: Camping:
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Trek to Borith Lake and drive to Karimabad via Attabad lake.

Altitude: 2,500m
Accommodation: Hotel
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Drive to Naran 355 km via Babusar Pass 4173 m. En-route stop at various viewpoints for photography and refreshment.

Altitude: 2,409m
Accommodation: Hotel
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Drive from Naran to Islamabad 5-6 hours, en-route visit Taxila museum and historical sites.

Accommodation: Hotel:
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Transfer to Islamabad airport for return flight.

Muztagh Ata Expedition

View of K2 Muztagh Ata (7546m) Expedition
View of K2 Muztagh Ata (7546m) Expedition
Muztagh Ata (7546m) Expedition
Muztagh Ata (7546m) Expedition
previous arrow
next arrow

Muztagh Ata Expedition (7,545-M)

Best time for Climbing Muztagh Ata is from June to September

Muztagh Ata 7545m lies just south of Kongur Tagh, the highest peak of the Kunlun Shan, together they form a somewhat isolated group, separated from the main chain of the Kunlun, and also separate from the Pamir Mountains to the west. (Both peaks are sometimes regarded as being in the “Chinese Pamir”, and are more closely connected to the main Pamir group than the main Kunlun group.) Not far to the north and east of this group are the lowlands of the Tarim Basin and the Taklamakan Desert. The Karakorum Highway passes very close to both peaks.
History
The Swedish explorer and geographer Sven Hedin made the first recorded attempt to climb Muztagh Ata 7545m, in 1894. Additional attempts were made in 1900, 1904 and 1947, the last by the strong team of Eric Shipton and Bill Tilman who came very close to the summit but were turned back due to cold and deep snow.
The first ascent of the peak was in 1956 by a large party of Chinese and Russian climbers, via the west ridge, which is now the standard route.
Since the first ascent, many ascents of Muztagh Ata have been made. In 1980, a party led by Ned Gillette made a ski ascent/descent of the standard route, the first ski ascent of a mountain over 7,500 m (24,600 ft). An ascent of the much harder south-east ridge was made in 2000. and led by Ned Gillette made a ski ascent/descent of the standard route, the first ski ascent of a mountain over 7,500 m (24,600 ft). An ascent of the much harder south-east ridge was made in 2000.

Dates & Cost – Muztagh Ata Expedition

MUZTAGH ATA EXPEDITION  Cost (USD) Cost (EUR)
Muztagh Ata (30 Days) – ALL INCLUSIVE US$ 3,050 € 2,710
Muztagh Ata Expedition (32 Days) – ALL INCLUSIVE US$ 3,210 € 2,845
Start DatesEnd DatesDepositAvailabilityRegister
01-July30-JulyUS$ 500Available 
10-July10-AugustUS$ 500Available 

Detailed Itinerary Muztagh Ata Expedition
 

Welcome at Islamabad airport and transfer to hotel. Afternoon proceed for city tour of Islamabad and Rawalpindi, which includes famous Faisal Mosque, Shakar Parian, Pakistan monument, Damen Koh, Lok Versa, Museum, Rawalpindi old bazaar, Raja Bazaar.

Altitude: 540 m.
Accommodation: Hotel
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Drive to Naran 6-7 hours 239 km, after lunch continue drive to Chilas 3-4 hours 113.3 km via Babusar Pass 4,173 m.
Babusar Pass is a high mountain pass at an elevation of 4,173 m (13,691 ft) above the sea level. The pass is the highest point in the Kaghan Valley, Pakistan. The pass connects the Kaghan Valley via the Thak Nala with Chilas on the Karakorum Highway. It’s one of the famous hair pinned roads in the world.

Altitude: 1,265m.
Accommodation: Hotel
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Drive to Karimabad (Hunza) 5-6 hours 240 km. En-route stop at junction point of three great mountain ranges meet, the Karakorum, Himalaya and Hindukush, at Thalichi for photography from Nanga Parbat 8,126 m and at Rakaposhi view point for photography and refreshment.

Altitude: 2,400m.
Accommodation: Hotel
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Drive to Sost 2-3hrs, 87 km. En route visits of Attabad Lake, Borith Lake, Gulkin village, Gulmit village, Passu white Glacier, Passu village, Hussani village and Hussani suspension bridge. Enjoy the magnificent views of snow capped mountains.

Altitude: 2,800m.
Accommodation: Hotel
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

After custom formalities, we drive over the Khunjerab Pass (4,733m) to China on the Karakoram highway. Today we’ll journey through the Khunjerab Pass at 4733 M the highest border crossing on a paved road in the world. The Pakistani side is marked with barren deserted gorges with no sign of human life. The Chinese side, however, is an open, grassy, high altitude plateau, with herds of yaks, sheep & low-humped Bactrian camels tended by the Tadjik people. That evening we’ll meet our Chinese hosts. 

Accommodation: Hotel 
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

(Bus 100 kms)In the morning, free time, in the afternoon we drive to Karakul Lake. Then, we will have time to take a walk along the lake and take photos to the lake and the massive Muztagata Mountain, the “Father of the Ice Mountains”. Here the glaciers and snowfields are overwhelming. The high wind swept the plateaus between the parallel ranges that constitute the Pamirs, the “Roof of the World”(called the Onion Mountains in early Chinese records), are the home of a branch of the nomadic Kirghiz people known as the KaraKirghiz. Pack-camels amble between their encampments of round ad-lib (yurts covered in thick felts of goat or camel hair.) We’ll photograph the great rolling grasslands and the mountains beyond. And visit with the local nomadic people and spend the night in a yurt, the round tent-like homes common to central Asia.

Accommodation: Camping
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

In the morning we drive 10kms to Subashi and meet our camels and start the walk to base camp. With the camels carrying the team’s equipment, we trek over a level plane and then climb steadily through barren hills to base camp, approximately a 4-hour walk. Drifts of alpine flowers clothe the slopes as base camp is approached and screeching marmots call a welcome (Incl: B.L.D O/N Camping)

Accommodation: Camping
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

17 Days in Muztagh At Base camp for climbing

Accommodation: Camping
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

After breakfast in the early morning remove base camp and after loading the camels trek back to Shubash. After arrival there in early afternoon pick up by bus and Drive along the China-PK highway to Kashgar, upon arrival, resting and free time. In the evening XGTC (Abbreviation of our company) will treat you on a lavish banquet, hopefully in celebration of many a summit ascent! 

Accommodation: Hotel 
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

In the morning driving back the border town of Tashkurgan inhabited predominantly by Tadjik people.
Then Traverse the 4733-meter Khunjerab Pass to Sost, It’s a long day and you should have your passports ready for the numerous inspections on our way from Tashkurgan to Sost.

Accommodation: Hotel
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Drive to Karimabad 78 km via Attabad Lake, arrive and transfer to hotel. After refreshment visit Baltit Fort 700 Years old and Baltit village, afternoon visit Altit Fort 900 Years old and Altit village . Evening enjoy water channel walk from Karimabad to towards Hyderabad village.

Accommodation: Hotel 
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Drive to Naran 355 km via Babusar Pass 4173 m. En-route stop at various viewpoints for photography and refreshment.

Accommodation: Hotel:
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Drive to Islamabad 5-6 hours, en-route visit Taxila museum and historical sites.

Accommodation: Hotel:
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Transfer to Islamabad airport for return flight.

Ultar Sar Expedition

Ultar Sar Expedition (7,388-M)
Expedition to Ultar Sar (7,388-M)
Ultar Sar Peak Hunza
Ultar Sar Expedition (7,388-M)
Expedition to Ultar Sar (7,388-M)
Ultar Sar Peak Hunza
previous arrow
next arrow

Ultar Sar Expedition 7,388-M

Best time for climbing Ultar Sar is from June to September 

Ultar SAR (also Ultar, Ultar II, Bojohagur Duanasir II) is the southeastern most major peak of the Batura Muztagh, a subrange of the Karakorum Range. It lies about 10 km (6 miles) northeast of the Karimabad, a town on the Karakorum Highway in the Hunza Valley, part of the Gilgit District of the Northern Areas of Pakistan.

Notable Features and Climbing History

While not one of the highest peaks of the Karakorum, Ultar SAR is notable for its dramatic rise above local terrain. Its south flank rises over 5,300 meters (17,388 feet) above the Hunza River near Karimabad, in only about 10 km (6 miles) of horizontal distance. Combined with its strategic position at the end of the Batura Muztagh, with the Hunza River bending around it, this makes Ultar a visually striking peak.

Ultar SAR also gained fame in the 1990s as supposedly the world’s highest unclimbed independent peak. This was incorrect, as Gangkhar Puensum in Bhutan is higher, and remains unclimbed (and off-limits) in 2007. (Two other higher peaks are also reputedly unclimbed and of independent stature.) However that perception did add to the appeal of the peak, and a number of expeditions attempted to climb it. During the 1980s and 1990s over 15 expeditions made attempts, resulting in no success, but in a number of fatalities; the peak proved to be quite difficult.

The first two ascents were made in July 1996 by two separate Japanese expeditions, the first (from the Tokai section of the Japanese Alpine Club) led by Akito Yamazaki (who summitted, but died on the descent) and the second led by Ken Takahashi. The first summit team comprised Yamazaki and Kiyoshi Matsuoka (who died one year later on the nearby peak Bublimotin). They climbed the peak from the southwest in alpine style, doing much of the climbing at night to avoid danger from falling rock and ice. After their successful summit, they faced strong storms and bivouaced several days without food before returning to base camp. However, Akihito Yamazaki died at the base camp of an internal disease due to the severe stress of climbing.

The second summit team comprised Takahashi and four others: Masayuki Ando, Ryushi Hoshino, Wataru Saito, and Nobuo Tsutsumi. They climbed the south ridge. Since 1996, there have been no recorded ascents of the peak.

Dates & Cost – Ultar Sar Expedition

ULTAR SAR EXPEDITION Cost (USD)Cost (EUR)
Ultar Sar Expediton (40 Days) – ALL INCLUSIVEUS$ 3,385€ 3,215
Ultar Sar Expedition (45 Days) – ALL INCLUSIVEUS$ 3,565€ 3,380
Start DatesEnd DatesDepositAvailabilityRegister
20-June28-JulyUS$ 500Available 
10-July24-AugustUS$ 500Available 
Detailed Itinerary Ultar Sar Expedition

Welcome at Islamabad airport and transfer to hotel. Afternoon proceed for city tour of Islamabad and Rawalpindi, which includes famous Faisal Mosque, Shakar Parian, Pakistan monument, Damen Koh, Lok Versa, Museum, Rawalpindi old bazaar, Raja Bazaar.

Altitude: 540m.
Accommodation: Hotel
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Drive to Naran 6-7 hours 239 km, after lunch continue drive to Chilas 3-4 hours 113.3 km via Babusar Pass 4,173 m.
Babusar Pass is a high mountain pass at an elevation of 4,173 m (13,691 ft) above the sea level. The pass is the highest point in the Kaghan Valley, Pakistan. The pass connects the Kaghan Valley via the Thak Nala with Chilas on the Karakorum Highway. It’s one of the famous hair pinned roads in the world.

Altitude: 1,265m.
Accommodation: Hotel
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Drive to Karimabad (Hunza) 5-6 hours 240 km. En-route stop at junction point of three great mountain ranges meet, the Karakorum, Himalaya and Hindukush, at Thalichi for photography from Nanga Parbat 8,126 m and at Rakaposhi view point for photography and refreshment.

Altitude: 2,500m
Accommodation: Hotel
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Drive by jeeps to Shahabad village 30 minutes, after meeting the porters in the morning, we start our trek for Shamir Harai 4-5 hours.

Accommodation: Camping
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Trek from Shamir Harai to Bath Bakhor 4-5 hours.

Accommodation: Camping
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Trek from Bath Bakhor to Ultar Sar base camp 4-5 hours.

Accommodation: Camping
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

28 days in Ultar Sar base camp for climbing.

Accommodation: Camping
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Trek down to Bath Bakhor 3-4 hours, after lunch continue to trek to Shamir Harai 4 hours.

Accommodation: Camping
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Trek down to Shahabad 3 hours and drive to Karimabad thirty minutes.

Accommodation: Hotel
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Free day in Hunza or Local visits.
visit Baltit Fort 700 Years old and Baltit village, afternoon visit Altit Fort 900 Years old and Altit village.
Evening enjoy water channel walk from Karimabad to towards Hyderabad village.

Accommodation: Hotel
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Drive to Naran 355 km via Babusar Pass 4173 m. En-route stop at various viewpoints for photography and refreshment.

Accommodation: Hotel
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Drive from Naran to Islamabad 5-6 hours, en-route visit Taxila museum and historical sites.

Accommodation: Hotel:
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Transfer to Islamabad airport for return flight.

Masherbrum Expedition

Masherbrum Expedition (7,821-M)
Masherbrum 7821m
Expedition to Masherbrum Peak
Polish Expedition to Masherbrum Peak
Masherbrum Expedition (7,821-M)
Masherbrum 7821m
Expedition to Masherbrum Peak
Polish Expedition to Masherbrum Peak
previous arrow
next arrow

Masherbrum Expedition (7,821-M)

Best time for Climbing Masherbrum is from June to September

Masherbrum Peak 7821-M (also known as K1) is the 22nd highest mountain in the world and the 11th highest in Pakistan.

It is the highest peak of the Masherbrum range, a subrange of the Karakorum Mountains. It is a large and striking peak, which is somewhat overshadowed by the nearby 8000m peaks of the main range of the Karakorum which includes four of the fourteen Eight-thousanders, namely K2, Gasherbrum I, Broad Peak and Gasherbrum II. The meaning of the name “Masherbrum” is not entirely clear. It may come from mashadar (muzzle-loading gun) plus brum (mountain), from the resemblance of the double summit to an old muzzle-loader. It may also come from masha (queen or lady), giving “queen of peaks.” Other meanings have also been suggested.
Location
The Masherbrum range lies to the south of the Baltoro glacier and the main range of the Karakorum lies to the north of the Baltoro. The main range is the continental divide of Asia. Rivers to the south flow into the Arabian Sea. Rivers to the north flow to the Yellow Sea.

The Baltoro Glacier is the route most commonly used to access the 8000m peaks of the Karakorum, and many trekkers also travel on the Baltoro. Masherbrum also lies at the north end of the Hushe valley, which serves as the southern approach to the peak.
History
In 1856, Thomas Montgomery, a British Royal Engineers lieutenant, noticed a tall mountain in the Karakorams and called it K1 (denoting peak 1 of the Karakorum). To the local people of the area, it is known as Masherbrum.
Masherbrum was reconnoitered in 1911 by the intrepid Dr. William H. Workman and his wife Mrs. Fanny Bullock Workman. It was first attempted in 1938 from the south; the attempt failed just short of the summit.

After two more failed expeditions, in 1955 and 1957, Masherbrum was first climbed in 1960 by George Irving Bell and Willi Unsoeld, part of an American-Pakistani expedition led by Nick Clinch. They succeeded in climbing the southeast face route that had stymied the earlier parties.

The Himalayan Index lists three additional ascents and six additional failed attempts on Masherbrum. The ascents include two by additional routes, the NW Face and the NW Ridge/N Face

Dates & Cost – Masherbrum Expedition

Masherbrum EXPEDITION Cost (USD)Cost (EUR)
Masherbrum Expedition (40 Days) – ALL INCLUSIVEUS$ 5,110€ 4,930
Masherbrum Expedition (45 Days) – ALL INCLUSIVEUS$ 5,270€ 5,095
Start DatesEnd DatesDepositAvailabilityRegister
20-June 29-JulyUS$ 500Available 
01-July14-AugustUS$ 500Available 

Detailed Itinerary Masherbrum Expedition
 

Welcome at Islamabad airport and transfer to hotel. Afternoon proceed for city tour of Islamabad and Rawalpindi, which includes famous Faisal Mosque, Shakar Parian, Pakistan monument, Damen Koh, Lok Versa, Museum, Rawalpindi old bazaar, Raja Bazaar.

Altitude: 540m.
Accommodation: Hotel
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Drive to Naran 6-7 hours 239 km, after lunch continue drive to Chilas 3-4 hours 113.3 km via Babusar Pass 4,173 m.
Babusar Pass is a high mountain pass at an elevation of 4,173 m (13,691 ft) above the sea level. The pass is the highest point in the Kaghan Valley, Pakistan. The pass connects the Kaghan Valley via the Thak Nala with Chilas on the Karakorum Highway. It’s one of the famous hair pinned roads in the world.

Altitude: 1,265m.
Accommodation: Hotel
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Drive to Skardu along with Indus River 8-9 hours, 290 km. En-route stop at junction point of three great mountain ranges meet, the Karakorum, Himalaya and Hindukush and stop at Thalichi for photography from Nanga Parbat 8,126 m.

Altitude: 2,228m.
Accommodation: Hotel
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Today we take the spectacular drive by jeeps to Jhola Camp 8-9 hours via Askoli village.
It is a spectacular drive from Skardu to Jhola; the jeep road crosses the Braldu River three times and passes the villages of Dassu, Apligon, Pakora, Hoto Chongo, Thongal and Askoli.

Altitude: 3,100m.
Accommodation: Camping
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Trek to Paiyu 6-7 hours 16.6 km.
This is an undulating walk, difficult at times, with the first views of dramatic mountains ahead. There is a rest stop by some tamarisk trees beside the stream flowing down from Paiyu Peak, where we saw ibex tracks and fox spore. The trail climbs to a vantage point from which you see the snout of Baltoro Glacier and, in the far distance, a magnificent panorama of the Cathedral and Trango Towers and left of them, the unmistakable triangle of K2 .

Altitude: 3,450m
Accommodation: Camping
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Trek to Urdukas 15.9 km, 7-8 hours. Another stunning day on our journey to K2 Base Camp. View of Paiyu Peak 6,610 m, Uli Biaho 6,417 m, Great Trango Tower 6,286 m, Lobsang Spire 5,707 m and the Cathedral Towers. 

Altitude: 4,050m
Accommodation: Camping
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Free day for local exploration and Porter will prepare their food for further trek. We enjoy a slow start today taking in our stunning surroundings. We take a short acclimatization trek during the day and in the evening sing and dance with the porters.

Altitude: 4,050m
Accommodation: Camping
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Trek to Masherbrum base camp 7-8 hours. Have a spectacular view of Masherbrum 7,821 m.

Altitude: 4,500m
Accommodation: Camping
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

30 days in Masherbrum base camp for climbing)

Accommodation: Camping
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

3 Days trekking down to Jhola from Masherbrum Base Camp.

Accommodation: Camping:
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Drive back to Skardu 8-9 hours.

Altitude: 2,228m:
Accommodation: Hotel:
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Today we fly to Islamabad. Afternoon is free for exploring. Note: If our flight is cancelled due to bad weather, we will start the drive to Islamabad travelling for 9 hrs along with Indus River to reach Chilas.

Altitude: 540m
Accommodation: Hotel
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Enjoy a free day in Islamabad for exploring, sightseeing and shopping. Note: If our flight on day 18 cancelled we will spend 11-12 hours driving from Chilas to Islamabad via Babusar Pass 4173 m.

Altitude: 540m
Accommodation: Hotel
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Transfer to Islamabad airport for return flight.

Chogolisa Expedition

Chogolisa Peak Expedition (7,665-M)
Chogolisa Expedition
Chogolisa Peak top view
Trekking to Chogolisa base camp
Chogolisa Peak Expedition (7,665-M)
Chogolisa Expedition
Chogolisa Peak top view
Trekking to Chogolisa base camp
previous arrow
next arrow

Chogolisa Expedition 7,665-M

Best time for Climbing Chogolisa is from June to September

The first climb on Chogolisa (SW) 7665m 25157ft was made by an Austrian expedition team led by Eduard Koblmuller. Gustav Ammerer and Fred Pressl were the first who reached the summit on August 2, 1975. The team leader Eduard Koblmuller fell through a cornice during climbing, but fortunately, he was roped and team members pull him safely.

Chogolisa (or Bride Peak) is a mountain in the Karakorum region of Pakistan. It lies near the Baltoro Glacier in the Concordia region which is home to some of the highest peaks of the world. Chogolisa has several peaks; the highest on the SW face (Chogolisa-I) rises to 7,665 meters (25,147 ft). The second highest at 7,654 meters on the NE side (Chogolisa-II) is the one named Bride Peak by Martin Conway in 1892.

In 1909, a party led by Duke of the Abruzzi reached 7,498m from a base camp located on the northern side and a high camp on the Chogolisa saddle at 6,335m. Bad weather stopped the party from ascending further.

Hermann Buhl and Kurt Diemberger attempted Chogolisa in 1957 after they had successfully summitted Broad Peak behind Marcus Schmuck and Fritz Wintersteller a few weeks earlier. On June 25 they left camp-I and camped in a saddle at 6,706m on the SW ridge. Bad weather forced them to retreat and on June 27, Buhl fell through a cornice and disappeared. His body has never been found.

In 1958, a Japanese expedition from Kyoto University led by T. Kawabara made the first ascent of Chogolisa-II, placing M. Fujihira and K. Hirai on top.

Dates & Cost – Chogolisa Expedition

CHOGOLISA EXPEDITION Cost (USD)Cost (EUR)
Chogolisa Expedition (40 Days) – ALL INCLUSIVEUS$ 5,840€ 5,660
Chogolisa Expedition (45 Days) – ALL INCLUSIVEUS$ 5,985€ 5,810
Start DatesEnd DatesDepositAvailabilityRegister
20-June29-JulyUS$ 500Available 
30-June 13-AugustUS$ 500Available 

Detailed Itinerary Chogolisa Expedition
 

Welcome at Islamabad airport and transfer to hotel. Afternoon proceed for city tour of Islamabad and Rawalpindi, which includes famous Faisal Mosque, Shakar Parian, Pakistan monument, Damen Koh, Lok Versa, Museum, Rawalpindi old bazaar, Raja Bazaar.

Altitude: 540m.
Accommodation: Hotel
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Drive to Naran 6-7 hours 239 km, after lunch continue drive to Chilas 3-4 hours 113.3 km via Babusar Pass 4,173 m.
Babusar Pass is a high mountain pass at an elevation of 4,173 m (13,691 ft) above the sea level. The pass is the highest point in the Kaghan Valley, Pakistan. The pass connects the Kaghan Valley via the Thak Nala with Chilas on the Karakorum Highway. It’s one of the famous hair pinned roads in the world.

Altitude: 1,265m.
Accommodation: Hotel
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Drive to Skardu along with Indus River 8-9 hours, 290 km. En-route stop at junction point of three great mountain ranges meet, the Karakorum, Himalaya and Hindukush and stop at Thalichi for photography from Nanga Parbat 8,126 m.

Altitude: 2,228m.
Accommodation: Hotel
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Today we take the spectacular drive by jeeps to Jhola Camp 8-9 hours via Askoli village.
It is a spectacular drive from Skardu to Jhola; the jeep road crosses the Braldu River three times and passes the villages of Dassu, Apligon, Pakora, Hoto Chongo, Thongal and Askoli.

Altitude: 3,100m.
Accommodation: Camping
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Trek to Paiyu 6-7 hours 16.6 km.
This is an undulating walk, difficult at times, with the first views of dramatic mountains ahead. There is a rest stop by some tamarisk trees beside the stream flowing down from Paiyu Peak, where we saw ibex tracks and fox spore. The trail climbs to a vantage point from which you see the snout of Baltoro Glacier and, in the far distance, a magnificent panorama of the Cathedral and Trango Towers and left of them, the unmistakable triangle of K2 .

Altitude: 3,450m
Accommodation: Camping
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Trek to Urdukas 15.9 km, 7-8 hours. Another stunning day on our journey to K2 Base Camp. View of Paiyu Peak 6,610 m, Uli Biaho 6,417 m, Great Trango Tower 6,286 m, Lobsang Spire 5,707 m and the Cathedral Towers. 

Altitude: 4,050m
Accommodation: Camping
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Free day for local exploration and Porter will prepare their food for further trek. We enjoy a slow start today taking in our stunning surroundings. We take a short acclimatization trek during the day and in the evening sing and dance with the porters.

Altitude: 4,050m
Accommodation: Camping
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Trek to Goro-II, 12.1 km, 5-6 hours.
A special day today as we will be greeted by our first full view of the giant peaks of the Karakorum. Masherbrum 7821 m, Muztagh Tower 7,284 m, G-IV (7,925 m), Miter Peak 6,025 m and Biarchedi Peak 6,781 m. 

Altitude: 4,380m
Accommodation: Camping
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Trek to Concordia 9.2 km, 5-6 hours. Where the Baltoro, Abruzzi and Godwin Austen glaciers meet. The 360-degree panoramic view here is one of the most spectacular sights in the world. Concordia the joining of the five glaciers you will be in the heart great Mountain K2, 8611 m, Broad Peak 8047 m, Angel Peak 6858 m to the left and to the East Baltoro Kangri, Kondus, Snow Dome, Golden Throne and numerous nameless mountains all around this is an exciting day of your trip.

Altitude: 4,650m
Accommodation: Camping
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Trek to Chogolisa base camp 6-7 hours.

Altitude: 5,000 m
Accommodation: Camping
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

27 days in Gasherbrum base camp for climbing

Accommodation: Camping 
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

4 days for trekking down to Jhola Camp 

Accommodation: Camping:
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Drive back to Skardu 8-9 hours.

Altitude: 2,228m:
Accommodation: Hotel:
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Today we fly to Islamabad. Afternoon is free for exploring. Note: If our flight is cancelled due to bad weather, we will start the drive to Islamabad travelling for 9 hrs along with Indus River to reach Chilas.

Altitude: 540m
Accommodation: Hotel
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Enjoy a free day in Islamabad for exploring, sightseeing and shopping. Note: If our flight on day 18 cancelled we will spend 11-12 hours driving from Chilas to Islamabad via Babusar Pass 4173 m.

Altitude: 540m
Accommodation: Hotel
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Transfer to Islamabad airport for return flight.

Rakaposhi Expedition

Rakaposhi-Expedition-Full-Board-Package
Rakaposhi-Expedition-Full-Board-Package
Rakaposhi-Expedition-Full-Board-Package
Rakaposhi-Expedition-Full-Board-Package
previous arrow
next arrow

Rakaposhi Expedition 7,788-M

Best time for Climbing Rakaposhi is from June to September

Rakaposhi 7788-M is a mountain in the Karakorum mountain range in Pakistan. It is situated in the Nagar Valley approximately 100 km north of the city of Gilgit. Rakaposhi means “shining wall” in the local language. Rakaposhi is also known as Rakaposhi Peak. Rakapushi and Dumani (“Mother of Mist”) It is ranked 27th highest in the world and 12th highest in Pakistan, but it is more popular for its beauty than its rank might suggest and is said to be one of the most beautiful mountains in the world.

Rakaposhi was first climbed in 1958 by Mike Banks and Tom Patey, members of a British-Pakistani expedition, via the Southwest Spur/Ridge route. Both of them suffered minor frostbite during the ascent. Another climber slipped and fell on the descent and died during the night.

Notable features
Räkapoşi is notable for its exceptional rise over local terrain, almost unmatched in the world. For example, it rises 6000m in only 16.5km horizontal distance from the Hunza River. There are magnificent views of Räkapoşi from the Karakorum Highway on the route through Hunza. A tourist spot in the town of Gulmat (located in the Nagar Valley) called “Zero Point of Räkapoşi” is the closest convenient viewpoint of the mountain.

Climbing routes
The routes with successful summits so far have been (see the timeline as well):
Southwest Spur/Ridge (first ascent route) Long, but not exceedingly technical, some tricky gendarmes (rock pinnacles) has been repeated
Northwest Ridge Long and more technically difficult than the SW Spur/Ridge Has been repeated
North Spur (a.k.a. North Ridge). Shorter than the above two routes, but much more technically difficult, has been repeated, including a semi-alpine-style (capsule style) ascent.
Attempts have also been made from the east side (Bagrot Glacier), the East Ridge, and the North Face.

Dates & Cost – Rakaposhi Expedition

RAKAPOSHI EXPEDITION Cost (USD)Cost (EUR)
Rakaposhi Expedition (40 Days) – ALL INCLUSIVEUS$ 4,150€ 3,970
Rakaposhi Expedition (45 Days) – ALL INCLUSIVEUS$ 4,335€ 4,160
Start DatesEnd DatesDepositAvailabilityRegister
30-June08-AugustUS$ 500Available 
10-July24-AugustUS$ 500Available 

Detailed Itinerary Rakaposhi Expedition
 

Welcome at Islamabad airport and transfer to hotel. Afternoon proceed for city tour of Islamabad and Rawalpindi, which includes famous Faisal Mosque, Shakar Parian, Pakistan monument, Damen Koh, Lok Versa, Museum, Rawalpindi old bazaar, Raja Bazaar.

Accommodation: Hotel
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Drive to Naran 6-7 hours 239 km, after lunch continue drive to Chilas 3-4 hours 113.3 km via Babusar Pass 4,173 m.
Babusar Pass is a high mountain pass at an elevation of 4,173 m (13,691 ft) above the sea level. The pass is the highest point in the Kaghan Valley, Pakistan. The pass connects the Kaghan Valley via the Thak Nala with Chilas on the Karakorum Highway. It’s one of the famous hair pinned roads in the world.

Accommodation: Hotel
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Drive to Gilgit 3-4 hours 134 km. Transfer to hotel. After refreshing final preparation of expedition and visit Gigit town.

Accommodation: Hotel
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Drive to Joglot and Jeep transfer to Joglot village and trek to Darakush. 

Accommodation: Camping
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Trek to Rakaposhi base camp on Kunti glacier

Accommodation: Camping
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

31 days in Rakaposhi base camp for climbing

Accommodation: Camping
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Trek down to Darakush.

Accommodation: Camping 
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Trek down to Joglot and drive to Chilas 4-5 hours.

Accommodation: Hotel:
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Drive from Chilas to Islamabad via Babusar Pass 4173 m.

Accommodation: Hotel
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Transfer to Islamabad airport for return flight.

➤
error: Content is protected !!