Rakaposhi, standing at 7,788 meters (25,551 feet), is a majestic mountain in the Karakoram range of Pakistan, located in the Nagar Valley, about 100 km north of Gilgit. Its name, meaning “shining wall” in the local language, aptly describes its grandeur. Also referred to as Rakaposhi Peak or Rakapushi and Dumani (“Mother of Mist”), it ranks as the 27th highest in the world and the 12th highest in Pakistan. Despite its ranking, Rakaposhi is renowned for its stunning beauty, often considered one of the most picturesque mountains globally.

In 1958, Rakaposhi witnessed its first ascent by Mike Banks and Tom Patey, members of a British-Pakistani expedition, via the Southwest Spur/Ridge route. Although they successfully summited, both climbers suffered minor frostbite during the ascent. Tragically, another climber slipped and fell on the descent, losing their life during the night.

Notable for its remarkable rise over local terrain, Rakaposhi offers breathtaking views, with its summit towering over 6,000 meters in just 16.5 kilometers from the Hunza River. The Karakoram Highway offers magnificent vistas of Rakaposhi along the route through Hunza. A popular tourist spot in the town of Gulmat, located in the Nagar Valley, offers convenient access to the closest viewpoint of the mountain, known as the “Zero Point of Rakaposhi.”

Climbing routes on Rakaposhi include the Southwest Spur/Ridge (the first ascent route), characterized by its length and some tricky gendarmes, and the Northwest Ridge, which is longer and more technically challenging. The North Spur (also known as North Ridge), though shorter, presents significantly greater technical difficulty and has been repeated, including a semi-alpine-style ascent.