Rakaposhi Expedition 7,788-M

Best time for Climbing Rakaposhi is from June to September

Rakaposhi 7788-M is a mountain in the Karakorum mountain range in Pakistan. It is situated in the Nagar Valley approximately 100 km north of the city of Gilgit. Rakaposhi means “shining wall” in the local language. Rakaposhi is also known as Rakaposhi Peak. Rakapushi and Dumani (“Mother of Mist”) It is ranked 27th highest in the world and 12th highest in Pakistan, but it is more popular for its beauty than its rank might suggest and is said to be one of the most beautiful mountains in the world.

Rakaposhi was first climbed in 1958 by Mike Banks and Tom Patey, members of a British-Pakistani expedition, via the Southwest Spur/Ridge route. Both of them suffered minor frostbite during the ascent. Another climber slipped and fell on the descent and died during the night.

Notable features
Räkapoşi is notable for its exceptional rise over local terrain, almost unmatched in the world. For example, it rises 6000m in only 16.5km horizontal distance from the Hunza River. There are magnificent views of Räkapoşi from the Karakorum Highway on the route through Hunza. A tourist spot in the town of Gulmat (located in the Nagar Valley) called “Zero Point of Räkapoşi” is the closest convenient viewpoint of the mountain.

Climbing routes
The routes with successful summits so far have been (see the timeline as well):
Southwest Spur/Ridge (first ascent route) Long, but not exceedingly technical, some tricky gendarmes (rock pinnacles) has been repeated
Northwest Ridge Long and more technically difficult than the SW Spur/Ridge Has been repeated
North Spur (a.k.a. North Ridge). Shorter than the above two routes, but much more technically difficult, has been repeated, including a semi-alpine-style (capsule style) ascent.
Attempts have also been made from the east side (Bagrot Glacier), the East Ridge, and the North Face.