Ultar Sar Expedition

Ultar Sar Expedition (7,388-M)

Expedition to Ultar Sar (7,388-M)

Ultar Sar Peak Hunza

Ultar Sar 7388-M

The best time for climbing Ultar Sar is from June to September.

Ultar Sar (also known as Ultar, Ultar II, and Bojohagur Duanasir II) is the southeasternmost major peak of the Batura Muztagh, a subrange of the Karakoram Range. It is located approximately 10 km (6 miles) northeast of Karimabad, a town on the Karakoram Highway in the Hunza Valley, part of the Gilgit District of the Northern Areas of Pakistan.

Notable Features and Climbing History:

While not one of the highest peaks in the Karakoram, Ultar Sar is renowned for its dramatic rise above the local terrain. Its south flank ascends over 5,300 meters (17,388 feet) above the Hunza River near Karimabad, covering only about 10 km (6 miles) of horizontal distance. Its strategic position at the end of the Batura Muztagh, with the Hunza River bending around it, renders Ultar a visually striking peak.

Ultar Sar gained fame in the 1990s as supposedly the world’s highest unclimbed independent peak. This perception added to the appeal of the peak, resulting in numerous expeditions attempting to conquer it. During the 1980s and 1990s, over 15 expeditions were launched, resulting in no successful summit but several fatalities; the peak proved to be quite challenging.

The first two ascents were achieved in July 1996 by two separate Japanese expeditions. The first, from the Tokai section of the Japanese Alpine Club, was led by Akito Yamazaki, who summited but tragically died on the descent. The second was led by Ken Takahashi. The first summit team comprised Yamazaki and Kiyoshi Matsuoka, who reached the summit but Matsuoka passed away one year later on the nearby peak Bublimotin. They climbed the peak from the southwest in alpine style, navigating much of the ascent during the night to minimize the danger from falling rock and ice. Despite facing strong storms and enduring several days without food after their successful summit, Yamazaki succumbed to an internal disease at the base camp due to the severe stress of climbing.

The second summit team comprised Takahashi, Masayuki Ando, Ryushi Hoshino, Wataru Saito, and Nobuo Tsutsumi. They climbed the south ridge. Since 1996, there have been no recorded ascents of the peak.

Dates & Cost- Ultar Sar Expedition

ULTAR SAR EXPEDITION	Cost (USD)	Cost (EUR)
Ultar Sar Expedition (40 Days) –	US$ 3,265	€ 3,100
Ultar Sar Expedition (45 Days) –	US$ 3,515	€ 3,350

Start Dates	End Dates	Deposit	Availability	Register
20-June	28-July	US$ 500	Available	Book Now
10-July	24-August	US$ 500	Available	Book Now

Detailed Itinerary Ultar Sar Expedition

Day-01: Islamabad and Rawalpindi

Welcome at Islamabad airport and transfer to hotel. Afternoon proceed for city tour of Islamabad and Rawalpindi, which includes famous Faisal Mosque, Shakar Parian, Pakistan monument, Damen Koh, Lok Versa, Museum, Rawalpindi old bazaar, Raja Bazaar.

Altitude: 540m.
Accommodation: Hotel
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Day-02: Drive from Islamabad to Chilas

Drive to Naran 6-7 hours 239 km, after lunch continue drive to Chilas 3-4 hours 113.3 km via Babusar Pass 4,173 m.
Babusar Pass is a high mountain pass at an elevation of 4,173 m (13,691 ft) above the sea level. The pass is the highest point in the Kaghan Valley, Pakistan. The pass connects the Kaghan Valley via the Thak Nala with Chilas on the Karakorum Highway. It’s one of the famous hair pinned roads in the world.

Altitude: 1,265m.
Accommodation: Hotel
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Day-03: Drive from Chilas to Kariambad

Drive to Karimabad (Hunza) 5-6 hours 240 km. En-route stop at junction point of three great mountain ranges meet, the Karakorum, Himalaya and Hindukush, at Thalichi for photography from Nanga Parbat 8,126 m and at Rakaposhi view point for photography and refreshment.

Altitude: 2,500m
Accommodation: Hotel
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Day-04: Karimabad to Shahabad & Shamir Harai

Drive by jeeps to Shahabad village 30 minutes, after meeting the porters in the morning, we start our trek for Shamir Harai 4-5 hours.